Battery keeps dying? Random warning lights? Accessories stopped working? I trace it down properly — no guessing.
Electrical problems are the ones most shops hate dealing with — because they require patience, real diagnostic tools, and the ability to read wiring diagrams. I actually like tracking them down. Multimeter, current clamp, scan tool, wiring diagrams — I bring the whole kit.
I find the actual problem. Not the closest likely part. The actual problem.
Full load test on the battery, alternator output test, voltage drop testing across the circuit. BMW owners: after replacing a battery, the ECU needs to be registered to the new battery's specs — without that, the charging system runs incorrectly. I handle this.
$100–$300Something pulling 100+ mA with the car off? I use a current clamp to isolate the exact circuit, then pull fuses to identify the module or accessory causing it. Dodge vehicles are common for parasitic drain issues from HVAC modules and body control modules.
$100–$300Corroded connectors, rodent-chewed wires, broken grounds — proper solder and heat shrink repairs. Not scotch-lock connectors and tape. I do it right.
$150–$500Headlights, tail lights, turn signals, interior — bulbs, ballasts, LED conversions, and wiring issues causing flickering or complete failure.
$50–$200Failed motors, broken regulators, worn switches — diagnosed and repaired or replaced on-site. Honda alternator failures are common at high mileage and present as dimming lights and battery issues.
$150–$400Relay, solenoid, ignition switch, neutral safety switch — I test every link in the starting chain before condemning any single component.
$100–$500Electrical diagnostics are 90% testing and 10% turning wrenches. I bring professional multimeters, current clamps, test lights, and full wiring diagrams. Everything I need to trace any electrical fault in your driveway — same as a shop, without the shop rate.
The biggest waste of money in electrical repair is parts-throwing. Shop replaces the alternator, battery comes back dead — because the actual problem was a parasitic drain the whole time. I test before I recommend anything.
BMW battery registration is something a lot of shops skip or don't do correctly. When you put a new battery in a BMW without registering it, the charging system defaults to a higher voltage that damages the new battery faster. I use the right software. Dodge vehicles — especially the 2010–2017 Charger and Challenger — have HVAC blower modules that are notorious for causing 1–3 amp parasitic drains. Honda alternators are reliable but when they go, they go suddenly and completely. The Honda CR-V from 2002–2006 had a known alternator issue that would cause the battery light to flash intermittently before full failure.
A burning smell from electrical components is never fine. That's insulation melting. Find and fix it immediately.
I trace the actual fault — not just replace parts and hope. Available 24/7 across the GTA.