Professional AC repair at your location across the GTA. Diagnose on-site, fair quote, fix it on the spot — no shop, no tow.
Prefer to talk? Call or text 647-450-0406 — answered 24/7.
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AC blowing warm in this heat? I come to your driveway, find out why it's not cold, and fix it — no shop visit, no sitting in a waiting room.
There's no worse time for your AC to quit than a humid GTA summer. You get in, the air blows warm, and within five minutes the car is a sauna. I fix that where your car already sits — your driveway, your work parking lot, wherever. I recharge systems, diagnose refrigerant leaks, and replace AC parts on-site so you don't have to drop the car at a shop and lose it for a day.
The most important thing I do differently: I figure out why it's warm before I touch the refrigerant. AC that lost its cold didn't just "run low" out of nowhere — refrigerant is a sealed loop, so if it's low, it's leaking somewhere. Find the leak, fix it, then recharge. That's the order that actually keeps you cold past the first heatwave.
Top up to spec — but only after I've checked for leaks. I pull the system to the correct charge by weight, not by guessing off the can. If it leaks, I tell you straight before we spend money cooling the outdoors.
From $150UV dye traced under a black light, or an electronic sniffer for the sneaky ones. Common culprits: O-rings, the condenser, the compressor shaft seal, and Schrader valves. I find where it's actually escaping, not just that it's low.
$80–$150If the clutch won't engage, it's seized, or it's grinding, the compressor is done. I replace it, flush the lines of debris, and replace the receiver/dryer so metal shavings don't kill the new one. Done right on-site.
$450–$1,100The condenser sits right behind the front grille, so rock and road-debris punctures are extremely common — especially on lowered cars and anything with a low front end. Pinhole there and your whole charge bleeds out.
$350–$800Cold on the driver's side, warm on the passenger side? That's usually a blend door actuator, not the AC system at all. I diagnose the clicking/stuck door and replace the actuator so both vents match.
$200–$450Relays, pressure switches, the compressor clutch, and wiring. A bad pressure switch or relay can stop the compressor from ever kicking on even when the system is full. I test the electrical side before condemning expensive parts.
$120–$350Here's the part most shops won't tell you when you ask for "just a recharge." Your AC is a sealed system. The refrigerant doesn't get used up the way gas does — it doesn't go anywhere unless there's a leak. So if your AC was cold and went warm, you almost certainly have a leak somewhere in the loop.
Pay for a recharge with no leak repair and you've bought yourself maybe two to four weeks of cold air before it's right back to warm and you're out the money again. On top of that, knowingly venting refrigerant into the air — which is exactly what a leaking system does — is illegal under Canadian environmental regulations. Recharging a known leaker isn't just throwing cash away; it's pumping refrigerant into the atmosphere on purpose.
So I find the leak first. Sometimes it's a $15 O-ring and the recharge holds for years. Sometimes it's a punctured condenser and you deserve to know that before you spend a dime on refrigerant. Either way you get the truth, not a temporary fix dressed up as a repair.
If your AC quote feels higher than your buddy's, this is usually why. Cars built up to roughly 2014 use R-134a refrigerant, which is cheap and widely available. Cars from about 2015 onward mostly use R-1234yf — a newer, more environmentally friendly refrigerant that, frankly, costs several times more per pound and needs different equipment to handle.
That's not a markup I invented — it's the raw cost of what goes into a 2017 SUV versus a 2010 sedan. So when a newer-car AC recharge or repair comes in higher, it's the refrigerant itself, not padding. I'll always tell you which one your car takes and why the number is what it is.
AC work doesn't need a hoist — it needs the right gauges, a vacuum pump, and someone who'll actually diagnose the leak. All of that fits in my van. I come to where the car already sits, run the full diagnosis in your driveway, and you keep your day instead of surrendering the car to a shop and arranging a ride home. Same equipment, same proper recharge by weight — just at your address.
Any shop that "just recharges it" without testing for a leak is selling you a temporary fix and counting on you coming back. If it lost its charge, it leaked — full stop. A recharge with no leak test is a stopgap, not a repair, and you should know which one you're paying for.
Stay away from the $20 "AC Stop Leak" cans from the parts store. That stuff is designed to gum up and seal small leaks, but it doesn't know the difference between a leak and the inside of your compressor — it can clog the condenser, the expansion valve, and the compressor itself, turning a cheap O-ring job into a full system replacement. I've seen it wreck compressors. Don't put it in.
And if you've got a lowered car or anything with a low, exposed front end, keep an eye on the condenser. It lives right behind the grille and eats rocks and road debris off the highway. A single pinhole there dumps your whole charge — it's one of the most common reasons a perfectly healthy AC system suddenly blows warm.
Don't sweat through another commute. I'll come to you, find out why it's not cold, and quote you before I start. If it doesn't fix the problem, you don't pay full price. Across the GTA.